article & photographs by Richard Carleton Hacker

The French don’t need an excuse to celebrate with champagne. But Americans do. And when Americans toast the French with champagne, it is literally a sparkling occasion. That’s exactly what happened when the MGM Grand in Las Vegas recently unveiled not one, but two exquisite restaurants by Joël Robuchon, France’s highly acclaimed Chef of the Century and the first to win three Michelin stars in a row. Befitting the occasion, they celebrated with the best of champagnes.

The event was uncorked with a gala reception at The Mansions, MGM Grand’s exclusive residential hideaway for those who somehow do not feel the suites or multi-level Penthouse Skylofts are elegant or private enough. We’re talking sultans, kings, and über high-profile celebrities. In this Italian villa-within-a-casino – where residents enjoy private butlers, chefs, and swimming pools - bubbles from bottles of Bruno Paillard brut Champagne flowed like the bubbling waters from the Renaissance fountain in The Mansion’s climate controlled garden courtyard, where even floor tiles are heated to 72 degrees. This was a prelude to Chef Robuchon’s culinary showpiece, Joël Robuchon At The Mansion. It is his first and only ultra-dining restaurant in the United States.

Designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, who created the décor for the Four Seasons George V in Paris, Joël Robuchon At The Mansion invokes an ambiance of pampered elegance, service, and cuisine of pre-war France. Crossing a neo-deco black and white floor, one enters a subdued, purple-hued dining room with a 17 foot high ceiling. Eyes are immediately attracted to the Swarovski crystal teardrop chandelier, its glistening gems catching warm sparklets of light from the gently cracking fireplace.

In the dark, intimate lounge to one side, the evening begins with flutes of 1988 Dom Pérignon Rosé en Magnum. Having slowly matured in larger bottles, the Dom ’88 Rosé has only recently been released. Its creamy strawberry essence makes one wish for a light Dominican cigar, such as the Davidoff Aniversario. But it would be a sin to taint the palate with even this delicate smoke before Chef Robuchon’s masterpieces make their appearances.

At L’atelier, Chef Joël Robuchon’s (r.) playfully sneaks a cigar from Richard Carleton Hacker’s cigar case.

In the Parisian sophistication of the main room, the service and servings remain impeccable throughout the evening. The meal begins with a lemon gelée accented with vanilla and topped with anisette cream, then segues into an artfully arranged fresh tomato and king crab arrangement with a coulis vejuté. Nine courses later the feast comes to a gentle landing with a white and dark chocolate-laden dessert cart displaying pastry chef Kamel Guechida’s caloric sculptures. It’s the perfect prelude to the thick power of a Graycliff Espresso or a Trinidad maduro in the casino afterwards.

The next night I experienced Chef Robuchon’s second culinary venture at MGM Grand, the unique L’atelier - which translates into “workplace” or “artist’s studio.” It is an apt description, for at L’atelier customers sit at a long counter and converse with chefs in an open kitchen as they watch their meals being prepared. Tapas and tasting menus are the norm in this semi-formal setting. L’atelier is the first of others opening soon in New York, London, and Hong Kong, continuations of Robuchon’s successful versions in Paris and Tokyo.

And again the bubbles flowed. But that was to be expected, for Joël Robuchon’s restaurants have access to more that 100 champagnes cellared by the MGM Grand, which boasts vintages dating back to 1950. Therefore, I was hardly surprised but pleased to discover a superb vintage I had recently previewed in Los Angeles.

It was in the cigar-friendly open air Wine Terrace at the historic Hotel Bel Air – a forested oasis secluded from the bustling L.A. metropolis - that Jacques Péters, Chef de Cave of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin introduced me to their newest release, La Grand Dame 1996. With its strong Pinot Noir influences, it is crisp, sharp, and radiant with citrus, hazelnuts and butter. This year, for added elegance, the bottle can be cloaked in an Emilio Pucci designed “Caprice” insulated jacket to help La Grand Dame maintain her cool throughout the evening.

The elegance of Joël Robuchon At The Mansion is apparent, even from the entrance.

I discovered another exquisite new champagne at L’Orangerie in Beverly Hills, a restaurant that has survived 28 years in a town where the average life expectancy for a bistro is six months. There, Dominique Demarville, the young and talented Chef du Cave of G.H. Mumm, unveiled Champagne G.H. Mumm Grand Cru, a first-time compilation of eight different wines from five grand cru vineyards. Five wines were from the 2002 harvest, plus a 2002 Cramant Chardonnay, and Verzenay pinot noir from both 2000 and 1998. With fragrances of apples and cedar, the taste was sea breeze crisp, with a lingering finish of smoky lemon. Although this sparkler was initially launched in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York, it would be a perfect dessert pairing with L’atelier’s picturesque La Framboise – a delicious raspberry jelly creation topped with Madame Yuzu pure whipped cream.

After dinner at L’atelier, I handed Chef Robuchon a cigar. It was the least I could do for such a culinary artiste. I speak little French, and he speaks even less English. But the Fuente Hemingway bridged the language gap. His face beamed as he took the cigar, and enthusiastically gave me a bear hug and kiss on the cheek.

A renowned French chef, champagne, and cigars - what better way to celebrate the New Year in Las Vegas!

David Forst, barman in the lounge at Joël Robuchon At The Mansion, pours the newly released 1988 Dom Pérignon Rosé en Magnum.	The bread cart is presented with aplomb at Joël Robuchon At The Mansion.
Chef Joël Robuchon’s artistic touches are evident in his signature Le Caviar Osciètre, a simple but elegant serving of asparagus topped with Oscetra caviar.	L’atelier features tasting menus enjoyed at a long counter facing the open kitchen.
La Framboise – a creation of L’atelier pastry chef Kamel Guechida - is a picturesque raspberry creation topped with Madame Yuzu whipped cream, perfect for pairing with Champagne G.H. Mumm Grand Cru.	I love to take pictures of food – even before it’s cooked. Everything is ultra-fresh in the readily visible storeroom at L’atelier.
The busy “behind the scenes” activity of the kitchen is actually in plain view at L’atelier.
In the cigar-friendly open air living room of the Wine Terrace at the Hotel Bel Air, Veuve Clicquot cellar master Jacques Péters (l.), Richard Carleton Hacker (c), and Veuve Clicquot Senior Brand Manager Rémi Fritsch-Fontanges (r) toast the night with the new La Grand Dame 1996.	At L’Orangerie in Beverly Hills, Dominique Demarville, Chef du Cave of G.H. Mumm-Perrier Jouët (l.) and Richard Carleton Hacker (r.) discuss the complexities of the new Champagne G.H. Mumm Grand Cru.